4.08.2024

Episode One: Plan G

You know how there is plan A and then plan B etc.? The last few weeks have been a lesson in always having a backup and/or being willing to go with the flow. I feel like I am currently on plan F or G of my trip already. The original plan had been to start from Grass Valley, CA and head over the Sierra toward Klamath Falls, OR, where I would meet up with some friends for about a week near Bend, OR before heading back to Klamath Falls to start north again. 

Things were looking pretty good for a while; the snow was melting and Punxsutawney Phil had said that spring was coming early, which I was a big fan of. However, about a week before I had planned on starting, there was a big snow storm in the Sierra and things started looking bleak for me. I told my Dad that his ski season was going to need to be cut short, but in the end, he got lucky. This was not a horrible thing; it just meant that my plan to try to stay on dirt paths for the bulk of my trip just went out the window, and instead of going over the hills, I would need to take the road around through the valley. However, this did not mean I did not need to go through the mountains still; I would just do it in a lower place instead. 

Country road, take me home...(table mountain in the distance)

In the next couple of days, I got to Red Bluff via backroads, and then cut east to head up and over the mountains. Well, this day it started raining, then snowing and then I actually hit snow at about 4,200 feet, which is a bit lower than expected. So I tried to plod through it for a while, but ultimately it was very hard and it was uphill and my feet were getting cold, so I decided to head back down the hill to regroup. I was going to try to hitchhike to the town of Burney, but nobody would pick me (a very wet person) and Bob (a very wet bike) up. Luckily, I found a feed store that was on the side of the highway and I went in and begged Sonny, the owner (we became good friends), if I could use his heater to warm up and asked him if he knew anyone with a truck who would be willing to give me a ride. 

After reviewing the weather in Burney and surrounds, I determined that the upcoming snow would make this journey a bit unpleasant and possibly dangerous, so in the end, I decided to go back to Redding, which is along highway 5 and wait for my friends there instead of in Klamath Falls. Luckily Sonny's friend was headed to town and he gave me a ride right to my motel! Thank goodness for friendly folks. After a week in Oregon, I was back in Redding, but ironically, though it had been nice for the last five days, it was set to snow again in the mountains! I decided to take a bus to Burney and start from there rather than trying to go up the snowy slopes of the highway. 

Yup, those are my tracks (and a bunny)

The pass I wanted to avoid

This turned out to be a wise decision. The highway (299) to Burney was uphill, windy and had very little shoulder and there were a couple of snowy passes. In the end, I skipped about 7 miles, but I am okay with that. I started off in Burney and headed east and then north again. However, lest you think it was easy, it was uphill, snowing part of the time, and in the 20s in the mornings! But I made it to Klamath Falls safely in the end. The weather is still supposed to be a bit hit and miss, but this week's lows are supposed to be in the 30s and highs in the 50s/60s so that is much better than 20s! I have spent a lot of time looking at weather, routes, and webcams lately, but hopefully things will become more (and stay more) spring-like after this. 

View of Mt. Lassen from highway 299

A few stats --> Dead animals seen on side of the road: snakes, squirrels, cat, deer, vole, birds, lots of unidentified bones. I have also seen lots of cans (but not as many as in Washington), cigarette packets, and beer bottles. Good things I've seen: many farms/ranches/live animals including goats, donkeys, ponies, horses, sheep, ducks, geese, hawks, unidentified birds, dogs & cats, many sunrises, many empty roads, fun small towns.

Now the fun part, the Q&A! If you haven't gone and asked any questions yet, you can do it here. Don't be shy! It can even be anonymous if you want it to! I thought I would answer a few in each post, except for some of Engie's questions, for which the answers will likely be an entire post! This time, I will answer a few logistic questions that I have recently been asked. 

Where do you sleep? (Michelle and various other friends) - I am doing a mix of wild camping, established camping, motels and staying with friends. Most of this will not be planned in advance, as I will not really know how fast or how far I will go each day, but my expectation is that I will likely try to have a warm bed and a shower about once a week. If it rains or snows on me a lot, this number may increase. [edited to add: given the snowy conditions, I have so far stayed in a motel 4 nights and wild camped 2 nights, but I am hoping to do a lot more camping over the next week.]

Wild camping in Modoc County, temps around 40

What do you eat? (Michelle and various other friends) - I carry enough food to get me to the next town, which will likely mostly be only a day or two's worth of food. However, there will be sections where I will need to carry several days worth of food or several liters worth of water. What I carry will be similar to backpacking food, like rice, beans and oatmeal, but I will also be able to carry some heavier things or fresher items like peanut butter, bagged salad and fruit/veggies. I will also stop in towns and eat real food from time to time! My favorite grocery store foods in town are ice cream, cheese and meat, but I will also be splurging on an omelet or a hamburger sometimes. I also do carry a stove and so I can have hot food like instant rice, oatmeal and coffee. 

Typical snack food

Coffee maker (aka the stove)

Where do you use the bathroom? (My friend K's 10 year old daughter L) - This really depends on where I am. The first few days I was in small towns or rural roads. If there is no traffic and/or I can hide, I usually just pee in the bushes. If I am in a town, I may use a park restroom or a gas station restroom, but I don't really like leaving my bike out too long. If I am camping, I will go in the bushes. If I am in a motel, I will use a toilet! 

Will I carry a weapon? (My aunt and my friend G) - Not this time. I am going to leave my Glock at home, but will likely get bear spray when I am closer to or am in Canada. 

Progress report: 352 mi / 563 km | 7 days | 42 hours (6 per day) | gummy bears eaten: 76

How was your week last week? Did you get any snow? Is it cold where you are? What do you do to warm up when you are cold? 

33 comments:

  1. I use a blanket in airconditioning and have a heated coat, so as I was reading this, I turned on my heating pad (one of THREE that I own) and marveled at you doing this BY CHOICE. Even now, as my thermostat is on 70 and it's 54 outside, my hands are cold.

    But you are an Intrepid Woman Of Adventure, and I'm in awe of you.

    It's shameful how much litter is seen on roadways and in other areas. Why have we backslid so terribly? I've noticed that as I drive even locally. I think we need to remake the Iron Eyes Cody ad and pound the airwaves with it.

    Safe travels! Thanks for the updates.

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    1. Ug, yes the litter is annoying! I do wonder if people are actually throwing things out, or if they are flying out of the bed of a truck, or what exactly is happening here. I would never throw trash out of my car, but I see it in Oakland a lot! However, I like to think that non-city people would be more cognizant of this, but maybe I am just being naïve.

      The dead animals are fun though! The deer for instance, looked to be a few weeks old and I wondered why the Fish and Game haven't come to pick it up yet. I would understand if it were off in the bushes but it was right next to the road. Where I come from, if it is fresh and not maimed, often people would take it home and eat it! :)

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  2. Once again, IT IS SO FREAKING COOL I KNOW SOMEONE DOING THIS! I feels like straight out of a book and I love it and I'm in awe (and, quite frankly, have zero desire to do this sort of thing myself which makes it even more fascinating - I like to use the bathroom exclusively indoors and give me a warm, soft bed every night).

    Oof on the snow. Weather is so unpredictable but makes the biggest difference, eh?

    I warm up with Magic Bags, long hot showers, hot drinks, and sticking my ice-cold toes on my husband.

    It's sunny here today, but it has been overcast and cold and drizzy for weeks and I'm so, so over it! Bring on summer. I know you're hoping to be in my area around the fall which is just STELLAR weather. September/early October is my absolute favourite time to see all the best Nova Scotia has to offer. Are you thinking of doing the Cabot Trail?

    I keep meaning to go ask questions, but I feel like I'm "questioned" out after my guest post series. I will try to put more thought in to this because I know I have questions but my mind is drawing a blank.

    Stay safe and have fun, my friend <3

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    1. There really is something to be said for a warm bed! However, it is amazing how great a toilet and even a sub par bed are after a few nights in sub freezing temps and bush peeing! I always get that way when backpacking, where you really start to realize what you take for granted and you have a newfound appreciation for those things! I have definitely been taking super long hot showers, even though at home I don't really linger, but right now, I am lingering x ten!

      I am hoping that I get there by October for sure! I did look at the Cabot trail but we will have to see where I am physically and mentally as well as how the weather is! I would love to do it if I can.

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  3. This is Lisa. Do you really own a Glock or is that a joke? You know me and how literal I can be! I cannot imagine you owning a gun but maybe you would need one if camping in a very remote area where you could encounter a large animal?? But consider that one of my questions!!!

    I am reading this from the beach of fort Walton beach where I am enjoying the sun but wishing it as less windy! But you take what you get! I could never ever do what you are doing! I feel like it’s a 5th percentile kind of ability to go out into the wild with your home on your back on 2 wheels!

    I will submit some other questions but I am wondering how you charge your phone? Do you have everything pretty mapped out and for how far? The whole trip or do you plan a week at a time or something like that?

    It was cool last week but will warm up next week. It was raining when we left yesterday which we were happy about as we really need rain after barely getting any snow this year!!

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    1. Lisa! I do not own a Glock! Wow, Oakland really made an impression on you eh?! :) I am a little jealous that you are reading on a beach in Florida, as I have been freezing pretty much every morning this week! As soon as I am done with this bike trip, I am headed to Thailand (no joke!) for some much deserved beach time, for sure!

      I will answer your other questions on a new post!

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    2. Lisa again - I was almost certain the Glock comment was a joke! But I had to ask just to be sure. I never pictured you owning a gun! So it would have shocked me. And I have heard that about bears. 2 people were killed my a bear in the Banff wilderness area last summer shortly after Amber and I were there but they were in a super super remote area and had used a can of bear spray. It sounded like they were very experienced but just must have been incredibly unlucky.

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    3. Yup, it does happen, but I think it's pretty rare. My understanding is that only a couple of people per year die from bear attacks in North America, so those people were definitely unlucky! Also as I mentioned to Stephany, I count every pound when I am backpacking (less so when on the bike, but I still try not to overpack) and so I am not sure I would want the weight. I just Googled it, and apparently a fully loaded Glock weighs about 2 pounds and is also an odd shape! Where would I even put it!? (PS one day of food usually weighs about 1.5 lbs)

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  4. We had ALL THE RAIN and a few snow flakes last week.

    Have you read The Indifferent Stars Above? It's about the Donner party, and I listened to the audio book last week. As I was reading this I kept thinking "oh no don't go out into the snowy pass" and then had to keep telling myself "it's OK, it's 2024 and Kyria has good gear, the internet, and common sense, she'll be fine".

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    1. I have that book on my holds, due to Engie's prior recommendation, but I have not read it yet. However, I know the story! I am currently carrying about five days worth of food, and don't you know the rule of three? You can go three minutes without air, three days without water and three weeks without food, so I will be fine! JK! I definitely am prepared AND I am never more than a day or two ride from a human, and I am not afraid to knock on a random stranger's door and ask for help!

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  5. This may shock you, Kyria, but we did not get any snow last week in Florida! I know - how crazy!! ;) It's been unseasonably nice in FL, which is really great. We've had some mornings in the 60s and I am LIVING FOR IT. The heat and humidity will be here soon enough.

    I'm also gonna need the answer to the gun question. It sort of makes sense to own one if you're going to be out in the wilderness so much, but I'm trying to imagine you with a gun!

    GOOD LUCK on this adventure! You really have to be so flexible with things not going as planned!

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    1. I do not own a Glock. Usually when I am in the wilderness, I am trying to be lightweight and I am not sure how much a Glock weighs but I am sure I would rather have that much weight in food instead! Maybe I could throw a banana at a bear. Just kidding; FYI usually bears will run away from you; it is very unusual for a black bear to be aggressive. Grizzlies are different in some cases (although they will often run away too) and I will carry spray once I am in their territory. For now, a banana will have to do.

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  6. you are so brave traveling in the wild alone!!! do you get scared? what's the most challenging and exciting part of traveling this way? I guess the changing of plans is not fun but makes us more humble about nature, right?

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    1. I have done a lot of backpacking in the wild alone and I find this is very similar, although it is closer to civilization, as I am often on dirt roads (and much of the wilderness in the US is off limits to motorized vehicles and bikes). So to answer your question, I am sometimes scared, but of humans, not of animals. I prefer to camp where I am a bit hidden so that I don't have any issues, but usually people in the woods are there to enjoy the woods, not to bug other people. However, I have heard some gun shots, but that is usually just people shooting cans (which we used to do as kids too).

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  7. The logistics of this are so interesting, Kyria! I am just imagining all the things you have to carry with you, and it is very impressive. Too bad about all the snow, but I think we are all happy (other than you) to have some snowpack, given last year's forest fires. It's been a little rainy in Kelowna, but definitely snowy in the high elevations. Hope you have a much-less-snowy trip now! I smiled at the fellow in the feed store, people can be so friendly and wonderful.

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    1. Nicole, I would say that 99% of the time, people are friendly and wonderful. It is those darn 1% (ha) that make it seem bad for everyone. I think it was Nance ranting about the news the other day and I had to admit that I do not watch the news or the weather or any of that, as they always talk about all the negative things. I am just going to assume people are good, but of course still be careful!

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  8. We did get snow last week, but I think we've turned a corner. Mostly highs in the 50s/60s are forecasted and lows in the 40s. Woot woot!

    I have so many questions, as you know, but I will patiently wait for you to answer them!!

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    1. Ha! Your questions were all very good, but are going to require long answers! I am so glad that your weather is getting better; lows in the 40s is quite nice. I have had mornings in the 20s all week and then riding downhill makes it even worse!

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  9. Oh goodness, your level of adventurousness is just beyond. I'm so impressed, and am loving your posts.

    I was sad to see a dead otter on the side of the road the other day on my morning walk. Even more sad to smell it still there a couple of days later, but then I called animal control, and as of today it is gone. Poor thing. :(

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    1. Oh yeah, you can smell a two-day old animal from a ways away sometimes. I am sad for the otter and wonder, where did he come from? Do you have a canal or waterway near your house? I have never seen an otter in WC or Oakland!

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  10. Hi! This is Daria from NJ. I am in awe of you traveling by yourself like that. Do you really own a Glock? Or was it a tonge in cheek sentence? How incredible that you are taking a journey like this. Do you get lonely ?

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    1. I do not own a Glock. I would not even know where to get one. Is that something you can buy over the counter!? My Dad owned shotguns when I was a kid, but really all that we used them for was to shoot cans.

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  11. Wow Kyria- this is really an adventure! I WOULD say I never get that cold in Florida, but after my experience in my last race, I know what it's like to be chilled to the bone (not fun! I had to sit in someone's truck with the heater blasting to warm up.) I would imagine- hope?- that you have more spring-like weather from now on.
    I'm looking at Daria's question above- do you get lonely? I'm imagining myself in your position- I think I would love doing this alone. But it's an interesting question- do you get lonely as the days go on? I'm also wondering if your parents are worried about you doing this, or if they're used to things like this. I think you mentioned your parents are pretty outdoors-y themselves. Anyway, looking forward to the next post!

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    1. Jenny, I remember someone once explaining to me how you can still get hypothermia when you are swimming in Hawaii or Florida, even though the water is in the 70s sometimes. It is really crazy how once we get colder than our normal temp, it is sometimes really hard to get warm again! Since there are a lot of people who asked the lonely question, I am going to address it is a future post!

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  12. I loved reading this post and am totally living vicariously through you when you write. What an amazing adventure :) I've recently done some longish solo hikes and did get a little lonely towards the end, so I second Jenny's question - do you get lonely? And I can't remember - did you bring books with you? Do you listen to music or podcasts while you ride? You seem so very brave--I remember feeling brave like that while traveling abroad in high school. I think maybe I've lost a bit of that bravery along the way (though listening to too many true crime podcasts might do that to a person ;) Congrats on the journey so far--can't wait to hear what happens next!

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    1. Laura, are you an introvert or an extrovert? I am the former, and I am pretty good with reading and hanging out alone. However, this lonely question has come up so much that I think I will have to answer it in a post of it's own! Re the brave thing, there are times when I feel brave, and proud of myself, and so happy to have accomplished something, whether it is a big hill climb or figuring out how to get somewhere or fixing my bike on my own etc. So I think there are a lot of ways to be brave! I don't think you have lost it, but maybe it has altered a little (like I feel that people with kids are brave!)

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  13. Kyria, your adventures look awesome so far! Silly question, but what is the specific process for doing all of your writing while you’re in the midst of traveling, setting up your tent, dealing with unexpected obstacles? Your blogging and picture posting seems so professional! I can type pretty fast using a regular keyboard, but when I type using my phone, it’s a very slow 1-finger process. So it got me curious about how you do it. Thanks and enjoy yourself!!

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    1. By the way, this is Berreaux who just did the last anonymous comment.

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    2. Welcome Berreaux! :) Those are all great questions! I will answer one now and add the others to the list to post! Regarding the blogging, I did go back and forth for a long time, but ultimately decided to bring my computer. I am like you and I cannot really do a lot of typing on my phone. Some people do it, but I find it tedious. So far it has been okay, but it does take up a lot of space in my bag, plus I have to worry about it being cushioned enough so it doesn't bounce around, plus it has to stay dry! However, it has been nice to have the option to use it when I am in wifi land!

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  14. I have always wanted to go to Lassen but never made it! The trip looks amazing so far albeit cold and with many changes.

    Also I feel like I have been to redding far too many times in my life but primarily due to snow keeping me from where I *actually* wanted to go.

    I am glad to hear you use a toile when you stay in a motel :-D

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    1. Ha! Well I suppose I could pee in the corner, but I don't think that the proprietor will appreciate that! Seriously though, it is amazing how appreciative you can be of a toilet after using the bathroom in the bushes for a while!

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  15. This is so cool, Kyria... and terrifying at the same time. My jaw dropped a little when you said you are not carrying a weapon but maybe will get bear spray. Eek!
    I also admire you for being willing to hitchhike and just wild camp by yourself. I'd be scared, I think.

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    1. I think that just like most things, once you do it a few times, it is less scary. I have never had any issues with hitchhiking or wild camping in the many times that I have done both!

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