Vietnam Fun

In case you missed my story the first time, pop on over to Women Rockin The Road, where I am blogging about how I almost got ran over by several motorcycles in Vietnam. While you are there, make sure to check out the How Do You Rock page, where you can find out how to tell YOUR story.

If you have already read that story and want to know more about Vietnam, here I have a few funny signs, for  your Saturday viewing pleasure.

Sooo...they will rub you with some garlic?

Check out number 5.

Dong. Hehe.

Well Kept Your Jewels!

Middle of the Night Escape

Yummy! Hedgehog!

This one is self explanitory

No Buffalo Riding!

Have a good weekend people!

Racing For Your Life

Crossing the street is an art form and all around the world it is done differently. I was in Washington DC once with some friends as we jaywalked across the street, the middle aged woman behind us who was standing on the curb, stated to her friend, “Hmph. They must be from California”. Well she could have been guessing, as we were two blondes and an Asian, but I think what she was referring to was that we had crossed the street in a non-crosswalk area. The nerve of us! What were we thinking? I wasn’t aware that this was a typically Californian trait.

In fact, she may have been better off saying, “They must be from Nepal”. They cross the street wherever and whenever they want. In San Francisco, the pedestrian judges the speed of the cars and walks accordingly behind or in front of the traffic (and rarely in the crosswalk). However, try the same thing in Sacramento and just as you are about to cross the street behind the Honda that is heading your way, the Honda will slow down or even stop and wave you on. Then everyone is confused. You are not sure why they are waving at you (do they know you?) and they keep waiting for you to cross. If there are multiple lanes, other cars may come and who knows if they too decide to stop or if they are going to keep going. The rules are different everywhere.

However, the most exciting and difficult street crossing I have ever encountered has been in Vietnam. In Vietnam it is a race. A race against time. A race for your life.

The traffic in Vietnam is not only horrible and busy but there are no rules that I can see. Many people drive motorcycles and they sometimes drive on the wrong side, run red lights and pass cars on the left and or right as they see fit. They drive to fast and swerve around cars. They drive on the sidewalk. They seem to think that a honk or twenty is the only thing you need before doing whatever you want. Throw into the mix dozens each of cars, trucks, buses and bicycles and you have a melting pot of chaos.

Now, imagine crossing this jungle on foot. There are no crosswalks, and as I said before, nobody obeys the lights anyway. You have to cross in the middle. There is always traffic. It took me a while to learn how to do this. I was standing on a curb, waiting for the traffic to thin, which it wasn’t. I was wondering in my mind, “How in the H am I going to cross this mess?”

And then I saw her, my guardian angel, an old woman, about to cross the street. So I got right behind her and decided to do what she did. What she did was this. She stepped off the curb. The traffic was still whizzing by with frightening speed. She started walking across, as if she was Moses and the traffic was going to just part and let her by. The funny thing is, it did. As she walked (and I scampered behind her), the traffic went around her. They judged her speed and avoided her (and me, since I was basically clinging to her Vietnamese pajamas).

I was amazed. So this is how they do it! Now I know. The key is to remain calm and to keep the same pace. If you jump out of the way or speed up, you may get run over. You have to just set your pace and stick with it and they will go around you. And this is how you win the race.

 
NOTE: This post is an entry for the JC Martin, Fighter, Writer "Race to 200" Blog Contest. Please go and check out her site and the other entries. We will be doing a blog hop from March 4-6 2011.

Make Way For Buffalo

make way for buffalo
Originally uploaded by kyria!

I love this picture with the water buffalo and the lady herding them on her bike. It's too bad it was overcast pretty much the entire time we were there so this photo is a little grainy and dark, but I still like it!

Ninh Binh, Vietnam -- near the Mua Caves -- Feb 2011

Non Sleeper

- Have you ever taken an overnight bus? They call it a "sleeper" and it does have seats that recline, but I sure do not do a lot of sleeping on that bus! Last night we came from Hue to Ninh Binh and it was a 12 hour overnight bus. We arrived at about 6 am in the pitch dark and fog on the side of the road. Luckily there was a guy who had a hotel and took us straight to a room and we went straight to bed. Phew! It was a long night.

- Why is it that they ride bikes a lot all over Asia and all over Africa and all over Europe, but we don't really ride bikes that much in the US? Today we rode about 12 - 15 km through the rice paddies. Everyone was busy planting rice and they all waved and smiled (and gave us necessary directions) as we passed them by. It was a really nice ride. Why don't we do this more often?

- The traffic here is crazy. That is going to be a future post all to itself.

- Now that we are in the North, the sun is gone (boooo). No more sunny, hot days. It has been cloudy, foggy and about 50 degrees. Well, I guess it IS winter, isn't it?

- Tomorrow we head out by motorbike to a few old ruins and towns. I am looking forward to it, except for the fact that the last time I rode a motorbike, I burned myself on the exhaust pipe. Really badly. Luckily we were getting gas and the gas-lady smeared some weird orange honey-looking stuff on it. It is still healing, but it is going to leave a scar.

- This is TOTALLY random. Have you ever heard of the Moron Test? It is an app on iPhone etc and it is totally addicting. You should try it. I think it costs 99 cents and it is the only app I have ever paid for. It makes you feel totally stupid. But you like it and you want more. I can't explain it.

Randoms and Questions: A Vietnam List

(1) Getting to Vietnam was an interesting experience. The guy told us that the bus would take about 9 hours. It turned out to be about 14 hours and two bus changes. The last change put us in a minivan with about 15 other people. In the middle of the ride, the van stopped and loaded a motorbike into the back of the van. I was feeling very faint the rest of the ride and I kept thinking, "what if I get gas poisoning?" I mean, can you die from inhaling too many gasoline fumes? I don't know but I was soooo sleepy and I kept thinking, "Can't. Fall. Asleep". Arriving in Saigon was the happiest moment of my day.

(2) I am trying to make my site mobile but am having trouble. I heard that www.mobify.me was good. I tried it and I pasted the code into my html but it still isn't working. Any hints? Anyone?

(3) I finished the book I was reading: Around Africa on my Bicycle. All 705 pages of it. A review will be forthcoming. You can find my list of completed books for this year as well as a list of previously reviewed books on my bookshelf page. Also our BBC (Blogger Book Club) picked this month's read (well really it is March). We decided on Sense and Sensibility. You can find out more about that on the bookshelf page as well.

(4) Looking for new blogs? Check out For The Love of Blogs. They have sections where you can browse different genres of blogs, they feature a new blog about once a week (sometimes more) and they have wonderful blog hops where you can enter and/or check out other bloggers using the link up.

(5) In Vietnam the portions are pretty small compared to what we get at home. This is fine for me, but Mr. Lovely needs a "real meal". Today we went to lunch and when he got his "steak and fries" (I told him not to try to order "European food") he almost cried, it was so small. So after finishing eating, we went for a second lunch! It was actually pretty fun. It was "cafe day". We had lunch, second lunch and then...why not...stopped for coffee at a third cafe. 

(6) Why is it that when I am on the 12 hour bus ride I have about a million ideas for things to write about but when it comes down to it I never remember, or it doesn't come out how I wanted? WHY!?

(7) That's it. Have a great week everyone! Happy Presidents Day!

Sights and Sounds

Vietnam in one word: Clean. You can’t always say this for many countries. You may have a nice beach but there is a lot of trash on it. You may get a hostel where the blankets haven’t been washed in a long time. You may have rats or cockroaches in your room (or even better, in the kitchen). In Vietnam, the laundry smells good, the streets are clean, things are on time and things are pretty organized in general.

Here are a few more things we have seen, heard, smelled, experienced and tasted while in Vietnam.

-4 people on a motorbike, sometimes with a TV, a bag of rice or a block of ice.
-A bus, 2 cars, 3 motorcycles and a bicycle sharing a lane meant for 2
-A pig knuckle soaking in a bowl of water on the ground right outside the toilet (okay maybe that is not so clean!)
-Honking, always honking
-Water buffaloes in the rice paddies
-The Mekong river, wide and brown
-People doing their laundry, washing their dishes and washing themselves in the Mekong (okay, maybe also not so clean)
- Pho bo (beef noodle soup)
- Dragon fruit (pink leafy looking outside, white inside with black seeds; tastes like a watery kiwi)
- Durians (supposedly smell REALLY bad. I have never noticed that)
- Café Sua Da (Iced coffee)
- Bootlegged copied books for sale
- Beaches
- Kite surfing
- Coconut shakes (my favorite)
- Scuba diving
- Ladies covered in clothing from head to toe. They don’t want to get tan.
- I was told I was an “old maid” because I wasn’t married with children at my advanced age.

Have you ever experienced any of these things? What are your favorite sights and sounds from around YOU? What's the weirdest thing your ever encountered?

What I Love About Vietnam

Bags like these!

Fruit markets

Pho Bo for breakfast!

Beaches

Dragon Fruit (tastes like a kiwi)

Vietnamese Coffee!

Riding around on a tiny bike

Spicy food!

There are a lot of other things but I didn't get photos of them all! A non photo list to follow!

Vietnam (April 3-April 10)

And it's one two three what are we fighting for, don't ask me I don't give a damn, next stop is Vietnam...

Hoi An (4-5 April)

As soon as I could, I got out of Danang. It was another big ugly city and I really wanted to just go to the beach. So another (scary) motorcycle ride and one more bus ride (only 45 mins! how nice is that?) got me to a small town called Hoi An, which is situated 5 km from the beach. I checked into a hotel which was quite nice considering the price and the amenities. For 7 dollars you get hot water, a bath, a TV and two huge beds. That is a lot of money to spend compared to say, Thailand, but in Thailand for about 4-5 dollars, you get a crappy toilet (sometimes shared) in a semi-smelly room. So this was like the Ritz Carlton to me!

First stop was the beach, for which I rented a bicycle and rode down to. It is about a 5 km ride which is not too bad, but the people in Vietnam drive like madmen (and women). Most people ride motorcycles and bicycles and the few cars that come through are honking and honking and passing in the middle, on the left, on the right... Another funny thing is that they carry everything on their bikes. So I am pedalling along next to...bananas, chickens, 4 people on one bike (the most I have seen is 5!), marquis, you name it! honk, honk, quack, quack...

Ahh the beach. The only problem is that there are people constantly trying to sell you something. If you talk to them at all, even to say "no thanks" they squat down next to you and make themselves at home. Not that that is so bad, but I really go to the beach to relax and read my book and it is hard for me to adjust to people trying to sell me stuff all the time. I don't like shopping and so when I want something I get in and out of the store asap. All this pressing me to buy something is not only quite foreign to my culture but to my own personal shopping style as well. I did meet a really nice lady who sat and chatted with me for a while however. But then in the end even she tried the same old lines... (she has a baby, she hasn't sold anything today, her boss is going to be upset, if I buy it will bring her good luck....) Games, games!!

The next day I went to the ruins of My Son, which are very old but have mostly been destroyed in the war (here it is called the "American War"). It was very cool, except after a while all the moss covered brick and stone structures start to look the same... It was also VERY hot that day; it was about 35 degrees C (95F).. I was pouring down sweat! I couldn't even hold my camera as my hands were so slippery! When we got back to Hoi An, I went to the beach again and then boarded an overnight bus (only 12 hrs..seems so nice now) to Nha Trang.

Nha Trang (6 April)

Ohmygod!! I have been violated! I was sitting on the beach at Nha Trang, reading my book, minding my own business, when... this man strode up to me and bent down and grabbed me in the crotch and walked away. I couldn't bring myself to do anything but just sit there, stunned, with my mouth open, trying not to look at him walking off but amazed at the nerve of him!!

Then I lie back down and start reading my book and he walks back up to me holding a beer in his hand as if it were a truce offering or some sort. Pffft. I smacked him with my book and shooed him off.. I still couldn't believe that had actually happened. I still can't!

Then four annoying little boys kept sitting right next to me and messing with my towel, my water, my hair, my book....so finally I decided that this beach just wasn't meant to be and I left...

Dalat/ Bus ride Dalat-Saigon (8 April)

Uunnnnnghhh...another crappy bus ride.

But first - Dalat is very beautiful; It is up in the mountains (seems very high, but I think they are only 1000 M - 3000 ft) and there are waterfalls and caves and hiking. The town of Dalat is easy to walk around and there is a lake and a really cool market. We walked around the market (I met a few people on the bus) and bought all kinds of weird things. They have the weirdest fruits... dragon fruits, jackfruits, custard apples... and more that I don't know what they even are. (I did take photos and will post later). They also have a great section with meats, one with flour etc, one with vegetables, one with herbs and spices... they even had a whole section with tofu and fake meats!! I love it! I learned how to say vegetarian right away - "chay". And I thought it would be hard to find "chay" food in Vietnam but it isn't.

So... the bus ride. I decided to go from Dalat to Saigon (which leaves at 7:30 am and gets into Saigon at 2 pm). Then I changed my mind and decided to go to a beach town called Mui Ne. What the tour operator told me was that I could take the bus to Mui Ne, arrive in Mui Ne around 2 and then another bus would leave for Saigon at 1 am arriving there at 6 am. That sounded great to me; I could have one more day on the beach and then still have a whole day in Saigon. I was a little worried about the 1 a.m. bus however. So I made him double check to make sure that it was going to be coming the next day. He called someone and apparently everything was fine.

The next day I got to Mui Ne and asked the tour operator there if I could leave my stuff with him until the 1 am bus... and he said "there is no 1 am bus. The only bus is at 2 pm" which was right at that moment. So... I had to get BACK on the bus and ride it for another 6 hours when I could have just taken the bus from Dalat and been there by now. I was very annoyed. AND I had to pay an extra charge for the next bus.

I took out my anger on the hotel operator in Saigon. She was so shrill and she kept yelling at me about taking off my shoes "YOU! shoes OFF!" and about leaving my key with her "YOU! KEY! KEY!" and about leaving my passport with her "YOU! PASSPORT or PAY!" and trying to sell me a tour for the next day in Saigon "I give discount!" I finally just snapped, yelled at her and went to bed...

Then I found another hotel for tonight and bought my tour from a much friendlier person...

I am ready to leave now.

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) (9 April)

Another big city. Some 10 Million people here. Although they do have a great market with fabulous vegetarian food! They make every kind of fake meat you can imagine. And it looks like real meat. In fact, the "vegetarian lamb curry" in Singapore was probably in fact, vegetarian, after all. Morning Star Farms, eat your heart out!
I had a near miss with a pick pocket today. She seemed like such a harmless old lady.. I opened my bag to get out a candy and accidentally left it a little open. I felt someone behind me jostle me and I whipped around but she was already crossing the street. I checked my bag, found it open and so checked to make sure everything was there. As far as I can tell, the only thing she got was the candy, which had been right on the top. Whew! I felt very lucky but also a bit scared after that. I kept watching my back and checking my bag to make sure it was closed all the way. Sneaky old lady! I hope she enjoys the candy!

Laos (March 30-April 3)

See what befell me in the quiet mountains of Laos.

Bus Ride or Hell: You decide (3 April 2006)

Ohmygoodness, I just had the bus ride from hell! What started out to be a 22 hour busride from Vientiane, the capitol of Laos to Danang Vietnam, turned out to be a 28 hour busride from hell...

It all started off badly. We were scheduled to leave at 7:00 pm from Vientiane. We arrived at the station around 6:30, settled into our seats and got ready for take off. We sat and sat and sat....There was a little Vietnamese lady who kept yelling at us, apparently about some boxes that she was taking on the bus (which they stack 10 high in any availible seat) which one of the Canadians who I was riding with was sitting to close to or something like that. She kept yelling at them and swishing her hands around, trying to get them to move to another seat. And then she was doing the same to me. What I understood from her is that she wanted me to move over and sit with an Australian girl so she could have two seats to herself. Now that did not seem fair to me, so I did not move and she kept giving me dirty looks for the rest of the ride (let's not forget, that was a 28 hr ride!)

We stopped for food with no problems and then got back onto the bus. I had just curled up on my (two) seats when I was poked repeatedly on the shoulder by a young boy who was apparently the spokesperson for the crazy woman. He again tried to get me to move over, but I again refused.

The bus was filled with boxes (what I did not understand was that there was a perfectly good roof rack on the top of the bus which was not being properly utilized) and bags and little plastic stools. I later came to find out, once we all settled down to sleep, that the stools were meant for spreading in the aisles and sleeping on. So we slept. The bus stopped at a reststop some time around 3 and parked for 3 hours before heading on down the road. The reason for this is that the border doesn't open until 7. Now WHY didn't the bus just leave Vientiane at 10 rather than 7?

We arrived at the border and...once again sat and sat. First we waited for it to open, then we had to wait in a huge queue (wait - it wasn't really a queue - it was a mass of people) to get our passports checked, and then we had to walk to Vietnam and wait again to get our passports checked. Then we sat and sat and sat while the bus was....(??) waiting in line to get checked, getting checked...something like that. Oh and then I had to transfer busses. It took over 3 hours. We arrived at the border at 6:30 and finally left at 10 something. We got about 5 km down the road and the bus broke down. So we sat there for about another hour.

Let me also explain the bus. It was a local bus which means: no A/C -only windows, no stopping for smoking - people were just doing it in the bus, again, boxes piled EVERYWHERE - this means under the seat, under my feet, behind, above and below me, and mostly Vietnamese people (I was one of 6 foreigners and then we transferred busses and i was 1 of 3) which is no problem in fact I like it, it makes me really feel like I am in a foriegn county instead of being with people who I could be with at home, but it means that nobody speaks English so you have to just guess at everything.

After the breakdown there were really no problems except that I saw a bucket of pigsfeet soaking in water right near the toilets and I thought how glad I am that I am a vegetarian...

We arrived in Danang at 11:30 pm (we had been scheduled to arrive at 5 pm). To me it looked like everything was closed and I was a bit worried about getting a place to stay. When the bus arrives in the city, the only way into the center is via motorbike. This is fun, especially when you have a 50 lb backpack on your back. Somehow with my terrible (non existent) Vietnamese and their terrible English, I explained to them that I needed a cheap hotel somewhere in the city center. It must have worked, becuase they took me to just what I needed. It was not as cheap as it could have been - (gasp! it was 15 dollars) but they had a hot shower, comfortable bed, free internet and great coffee and baguettes (thanks to the French influence) so I was happy.

Vientiane, Laos: 2 April 2006

I was told by a couple of fellow travellers that:
a) Vientiane is the only place with ATMS (which I have yet to see)
b) Vientiane is not really that exciting (it is the biggest city in Laos however, so it depends on what floats your boat)

Usually, if you are coming from Bangkok, the easiest way to get into Laos is to cross at Vientiane. I however, did not come from Bangkok, but instead crossed over at the North of Thailand at Chang Khong. So really there is no reason for me to be in Vientiane. Knowing that, I have decided to only stay here for a few hours. I took the bus down from Vang Vieng this morning and am taking another bus to Vietnam (Danang) this evening. All in all I will only have been in Vientiane for about 5 hours. So, from what I see, there is pretty good soup, the internet is not really very cheap and I did not find an ATM but I did find an exchange.

I also found a nice little guy named "V" who runs the P P Guesthouse and who is letting me store my bags and loaf on his couch and watch TV while I wait for my bus (granted, he did have on WWF Female wrestling which I am not particularly interested in). He also was nice enough to rub something similar to Vicks Vapo Rub on my toe when I came back into the guesthouse bleeding from an unfortunate accident with a sidewalk grate. Now I have never had Vicks Vapo Rub rubbed on a cut before and I expected quite a sting, but really it was no worse than iodine or the like. Funny, becuase the Thai and Laos people rub Tiger Balm on everything. I even read the back of the package after seeing a Thai woman rub some below her nose before going into a stinky bathroom (good idea, by the way! Except doesn't it make one's nose burn?). What the back of the package states is that tiger balm is good for "aches, pains, headache, constipation... now WHERE are you supposed to rub it if you are constipated, may I ask?

So my time in Vientiane is limited to learning:
a) if they do have ATMs I don't know where they are hiding them
b) whoever said Vientiene is not that exciting may be right unless you can count cutting your toe on a sidewalk grate and having a small Lao named V rub Vapo Rub on it exciting.

So now I am off on a 22 hour journey (hopefully more comfy than the one on the train to Bangkok) from Vientiane, across the border and into Vietnam. I arrive there tomorrow at 5 pm and I plan to check out the city a bit before heading down the coast towards Ho Chi Minh city.